GIVENCHY GALLANTRY GENTLEMEN

“Gentlemanliness is an expression of character” quote on the notes for Givenchy’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection.

Givenchy reimagines its founder’s own wardrobe for Fall Winter 24, and looked at the “new gentleman” through the perspective of Hubert de Givenchy’s own style.

Gentlemanliness is a manifestation of character. It is an atmosphere fueled by instinct and personality, with gallantry and elegance as its foundation. In its continued explorations of modern elegance, Givenchy Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme presents a study of the new gentleman inspired by the character of Hubert de Givenchy.

The community line presented a study on the “new gentleman,” via the prism of the House’s founder, Hubert de Givenchy, whose wardrobe may be separated into two dichotomous characters: public and intimate.

Givenchy presented its new menswear collection for the Fall/Winter 2024-2025 season in the salons of 3, Avenue George V – where the founder created his collections in its headquarters and took place in the drawing room of a private mansion. For Fall/Winter 2024-2025, the French company returned to the essence of design, without embellishments.

The Fall Winter 2024 men’s proposition delves into the dichotomy of his public and personal wardrobes: a sartorial formality electrified by an unrivalled off-duty sense of nonchalance, flamboyance, and sensuality. Conveyed via a contemporary perspective, it depicts a wardrobe steeped in the principles of clothing yet irresistibly energised by the shock of the new.

Givenchy experimented with reinterpreting wardrobe necessities and exploring the notion of elegance, all while maintaining a certain amount of ease. The tailoring, for example, was crisp while keeping a casual air, a difficult combination to achieve.

Matthew M. Williams unveiled his new Givenchy menswear collection for Fall-Winter 2023-2024. Williams has a penchant for streetwear aesthetics from his time at the French fashion house, and this season he took it a step further by fusing his signature look with impeccably tailored suits and full-length coats.

Hubert’s renowned blouse blanche, which he wore in his studio, was reinterpreted on the catwalk as a workday top, available in both sleeved and sleeveless versions, as an exquisite working essential. The quirky gestures with which the creator filled his own clothing are reflected in the collection’s designs and surface embellishments. The chandelier pattern from the archives is rendered in metallic embroidered with crystals and pearls.

The famous designer’s formal uniform took the shape of suits and coats with armholes under the sleeves, a nod to his fondness of capes. Many of them came in sapphire, a tone that Mr. Givenchy notably employed as a replacement for black.

The models walked down an immaculate white runway in black or grey suits, wearing charmingly traditional turtlenecks, gloves, and stiletto boots. For Matthew M. Williams, it represented a return to Givenchy’s stylish savoir-faire, which he combined with his own streetwear features. If anything, the (oversized or slim-cut) sweatshirts, cargo trousers, Bermuda shorts, fitted men’s skirts and even superposed materials and patterns all served to highlight his vision.

This season, bright colours like orange, pink, and neon yellow, which he first used in his Spring-Summer 2023 collection, were seen on jumpsuits and casually draped around the models’ waists. Williams is known for his love of layering and isn’t hesitant to use it to emphasize his designs. Furthermore, he enjoys experimenting with various creative combinations by combining tartan, camouflage, and python designs with synthetic materials such as leather and faux fur.

Graphics and decorations for the series were inspired by the founder’s own wardrobe. Shearling was left untrimmed on outerwear and used as a decorative finish on pants. Jump jackets were wrapped in twisted synthetic hair embellishments, while a reference to a cat motif appeared on hair print clothing and bags with concealed resin or dazzling cat eyes. An antique scarf was updated in a plaited hair pattern and fashioned casually in classic Hubert de Givenchy manner. His coveted trademark belt was also restored, with a “2G” insignia on the clasp.

Zooming in, Givenchy said that the “new gentleman’s” shoes will be loafers, mules, and derbies in upmarket fabrics with velvet finishes. Western boots combined with working designs to create a bold-toe silhouette with knotted leather cord accents. Bags completed the collection: the Voyou was redesigned in buffalo leather, cowhide, and shearling, while the Pandora was updated with additional pockets in similar finishes.

Another contrast may be seen in clothes, which blurs the borders between feminine and masculine. Slim and soft lines coexist with boxy fits, and an assortment of pattern and sequined-adorned items stood out among the color-blocked outfits.